The Best and Worst of Times...or One Final Word

Over the past year we’ve thought a lot about our experience here in Korea. And we don’t mean just what we’ve experienced personally, but how we’ve experienced Korea itself. Now, we know that living in another country for merely a year doesn’t qualify us, per se, as expert commentators, but since when has such notions as being “qualified” or “expert” ever stopped us from blabbering on with our opinions before? And so here you have it: the good, the bad, and the downright ugly of Korea.

The Good

Never Down for the Count:

The absolute best thing about Korea is that it’s a fighter. It might not be the strongest fighter in the game but it’s probably the toughest. Japan’s been invading Korea since the 16^th century and while China was never quite as aggressive as the Japanese they certainly took their share of resources (think gold and virgins) from the Koreans over the years. Most people in the west don’t know this, but Japan actually occupied them in 1907 and didn’t leave until the end of the Second World War.

During their stay, the Japanese tried everything they could to destroy Korean culture. They destroyed palaces, banned the use of the Korean language, used forced labour, and even went as far as using Korean women as “comfort women” (a polite word for forced prostitution). Combine this history with their recent civil war, and you think Korea would be like most other countries who shared similar histories - absolutely crippled both economically and spiritually. Yet somehow, against all odds they have prevailed. They have a massive economy (one the world’s biggest), unparalleled pride in their nation, and they even managed to switch from a totalitarian state to a burgeoning democracy. It’s hard not to respect the hell out of that.

Made in Korea:

Korea’s past probably drove it to want to be as independent as possible, because for a country of only fifty million people or so, its economy is a real powerhouse. Most of you probably have numerous Korean products around your house, but you might not know it. If you own anything from Samsung, Hyundai, LG, Daewoo, Kia, or Lotte, it was probably made here. Koreans take a deep pride in producing locally almost everything they need. They produce their own buses, lamps, toys, clothes, computers, cars, chemicals, movies, medicines, alcohol, etc, etc. Almost anything you can think of, they make.

Now, a lot of that is going to change with the recently signed trade agreement with the United States. Still, their desire to produce everything in-house always impressed us. If only they’d produce some Kraft Dinner or donairs : ) The Koreans don’t seem to respond well to foreign businesses rolling in either. Dozens of companies have learned the hard way that if you don’t cater your product to fit Korean needs you will fail here no matter how popular you are back home (the biggest company to make this mistake was Walmart who bombed in Korea and had to sell all of their stores last summer. This is probably another reason to like Korea).

Misc Mumbo Jumbo:

We could go on and on about how kind most Koreans have been to us over the past year. But hopefully you already know that from reading our site. Still, we’d have to be crazy to write a blog about what we liked about this place and not mention its people. Sure there are no limits to the number of crazy old adjumas (married women) who will push you out of the way on the streets or pizza delivery boys who fail to consider your safety as they wiz by at 100 km an hour. But, when push comes to shove most Koreans are helpful, caring people and we have to give them their props. So people of Korea, Kudos to you.

The Bad

Confucius…Oh Confucius

For most people in the west Confucius holds a certain mystique generally contained to fortune cookies and dirty jokes. But here in Korea one finds out what Confucius was really all about, and it ain’t all fun and games.

Korea is the country that, above all others, took Confucianism to heart and never really let go. Its thinking has profoundly shaped the country’s culture. Part of that culture is hierarchy. From school children to company presidents, hierarchy is so intensely important here that we know a Korean woman whose long-time boyfriend dumped her because he attended the much-lauded Seoul University, while she only went to a college, and his parents strongly disapproved (so much so that they would call her and badger her to break up with him).

This sense of hierarchy has led to strong competition throughout society, and coupled with another Confucian tenet that places “study hard” up there with “thou shall not kill”, Korean children are subjected to a work day that would rival 19^th century textile mills…minus the risk of amputated fingers of course. Seriously though, Korean children study for an unreasonable length of time each day. Elementary and middle school students start school at 8 o’clock and then attend one to three private academies until the middle of the evening. High school students (who were lucky enough to make it into an academic high school) start at 8am, eat both lunch and dinner at school, and make it home sometime around 10pm.

What makes the education system here all the worse is that the government and businesses have made academic achievement absolutely paramount to success later in life. Seriously, one bad test score in middle school could domino and make the difference between making a good salary and delivering fried chicken. Second chances are rare. Say what you want about western society, but it’s comforting to know that we could completely mess up our lives now, and later be able to pull up our bootstraps and make a million bucks if we really put our minds to it (how hard could it be? :-D )

“And the walls…came tumbling down…”

For all the success Korea has had in rebuilding since the war and becoming an economic powerhouse, all that drive has had its drawbacks…and nowhere is that more in evidence than in its buildings.

As I read in a book called “The Koreans” (which I highly recommend), Koreans have a big “can do” attitude coupled with a “that’ll do” attitude. This means that buildings are put up as quickly as possible, with many corners cut. In Ulsan, many buildings aren’t that old, but they’re starting to crumble, as tiles fall away revealing shoddy concrete underneath. Inside apartments too, it’s common to see peeling wallpaper, ripping in the corners where it wasn’t set flush to the wall, caved-in tiles set over gaps in the concrete, unleveled surfaces, etc, etc. Our curtains fell down in the bedroom the other week, revealing too-short screws driven into the concrete without anchors. It’s all a little bit shocking for such a modern, industrial country.

Fashion…not likely

For anyone looking for westernized Asian shopping, Korea is not the place to go. Fashion here seems to be stuck somewhere in the 80’s and the mantra is “fancier is better.” Everything from ruffles to bows to sequins to big pictures of Mickey Mouse are all a-okay. For instance, check out these losers:

Anyway, there's a million more nice things we could say about Korea and a few other annoyances that we could mention too. But time is short and we've got packing to do. Hopefully we've shown over the year how much we love this place. It truly is our second home and we're already missing it.

So...as the Koreans say "An-Kung-ee-cass-ayo"

Goodbye